Vintage Eisenberg - Eisenberg Original - Eisenberg Ice

Chicago-based Eisenberg was started as the first "American" designer clothing company by owner/designer Jonas Eisenberg in 1880. After about 35 years the company decided to add jewelry to their clothing to show the public a more completed "look"; the jewelry proved to be so popular that retailers had difficulty preventing people from stealing the jewelry off of the clothing. In a flash of inspiration it was decided to sell jewelry separately from the clothing. For almost 20 years this jewelry was unmarked, but in approximately 1935 it was decided to mark jewelry with "Eisenberg Originals" (sometimes the "original" was left off), a mark that was used until the late 1940's (most of the WWII era pieces were also sterling and marked as such) , when a script "E" and eventually Eisenberg in block letters replaced the first marking. A block E was also used closer to 1960, and from 1960 to present Eisenberg Ice has been used, with pieces in the 1970's and 1980's for the most part remaining unmarked. In 1994 Eisenberg introduced Eisenberg Ice Classics, which also continues to the present. The clothing line was discontinued in the 1950's.

Eisenberg clothing, for the most part, was solid colors, in black, grey, and navy, well-made, conservatively cut daywear in the form of suits and daytime dresses, aimed at well-to-do housewives. The pre-1950's jewelry pieces were also aimed at an upscale audience, and the stores that carried the items were carefully chosen, with only one store/chain per major city able to retail the line. A woman who had received a clear Eisenberg fur clip as a going away gift from her husband when he left for the service in 1942 told me her husband had spent almost $100.00 for the piece, a whopping sum for a piece of costume jewelry at that time. The jewelry was beautiful and varied, but often featured Swarovski rhinestones, as the Eisenbergs, who were Austrian emigrees, felt it important to support their former countryman, but whom also produced the finest quality glass stones in the world, and the Eisenbergs wanted that quality of stone used in their line. Both all clear and colored stones pieces were made, with the colored stone pieces being the most expensive and highly priced. These pieces were, for the most part, produced by an East Coast company called Fallon & Kappel, whose young designer, Ruth Kamke, was often assigned to design pieces exclusively for the Eisenberg company. While dress clips and later fur clips formed the bulk of the production, necklaces, earrings, bracelets, brooches, rings, belts, and other types of dress ornaments were produced, as well as accessory items such as compacts and even perfume.  Most, but not all, of the pieces marked Eisenberg Original also have a stonesetter's mark in the form of a letter or a number in a circle.

In the 1950's, postwar fashions changed dramatically and the "cocktail style" was the hottest thing around. Fabric was at a premium during WWII and with fabric companies back in full production, the clothing industry responded with dresses that required many yards of fabric. Rhinestone jewelry changed as well, with both clear and colored stones being popular, but the look changing to reflect the use of pave (small stones that were paste set in lines or entire parts of a design). Eisenberg began using styles that had paved "curliques" and "wings" that gave its pieces a distinctive look, particularly when juxtaposed with fancy cut colored stones of various shapes and sizes. (The Weiss company copied this look, and occasionally even used the same findings that Eisenberg used, which is why sometimes you will find pieces that are signed Weiss but look like Eisenberg.)

In the early1970's, Eisenberg produced a line of hand-enameled pendant necklaces, earrings, hinged bangles, rings and brooches in "mod" color schemes, using designs loosely based on the works of contemporary "Surrealist" artists. While these have not proven to be as highly sought after as the rhinestone pieces, they are well-done, interesting, and very wearable, and should not be ignored by the die-hard Eisenberg collector. The advertisements of the time period say that the pieces were baked 27 times, so the finishes, by and large, have held up very well except under hard use.

The Eisenberg company returned to making rhinestone jewelry, but started producing Christmas tree pins; over time, the production and popularity of these pieces has exceded interest in their non-Christmas pieces; however, the company still produces very nice "social occasion" pieces. In 1994 they issued a line of Eisenberg Ice "Classics" based on designs previously done by the company, which came in a specially marked box and the pieces were signed Eisenberg Ice in script with a tiny '94. (No other legitimate pieces of Eisenberg are signed Eisenberg Ice in script.) The line, which met with limited success due to the high cost of production reflected in the pricing, was begun again around 2000, and continues to this day, with these pieces now being marked with the traditional Eisenberg Ice plaque that is seen on all the rest of the pieces.

When I visited the Chicago showroom in the early 1990's, Karl Eisenberg, grandson of the founder Jonas Eisenberg, was still head of sales, though the company had been sold to a larger jewelry conglomerate several years before. Mr. Eisenberg was kind enough to spend about an hour talking to me about his company ; he expressed to me at that time his amazement at the collectibility of his company's production and how, while he knew there were massive private collections of the company's pieces, that they (the company) had not, for the most part, saved pieces for their own archives. To my knowledge he is no longer active in the day-to-day operation of the company.

Current (brand new) Eisenberg pieces are available in the "contemporary" section of our website.

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Questions? Problems? Contact me @ ppj@ncn.net or by calling 515 882-3492. Thank you!

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Description: Eisenberg Original Fur Clip with Clear Rhinestones - Large, single dress and fur clips in clear rhinestones were the Eisenberg & Sons Company's bread and butter pieces during the 1930's and 40's. Used as accent pieces on their dresses (which apparently were largely black, beautifully tailored garments), these dress and fur clips ran the gamut from very basic to gorgeous, fairly complex designs. This piece uses a variety of stone shapes - rounds, baguettes, ovals, pears, and an unusual uneven octagon shape. All the large stones are prong set and in excellent condition. Smaller stones are paste set; some of the smallest have darkened to various degrees as would be expected of a piece of this age. Marked Eisenberg Original in usual dot matrix signature; also N within a circle, which was a stonesetter's mark. 2 3/8" x 2"; a beautiful and feminine piece. Item: SF10-699 Price: $175.00 US

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Description: Eisenberg Fuchsia & Purple Rhinestone Brooch and Earring Set- Circa late 1950's pieces that are absolutely beautiful. Eisenberg excelled in sparkling colored and clear rhinestone pieces, this is probably their ultimate "mixed" color combination. Brooch uses marquise, round (dentelle cut) and pear shaped purple stones, round fuchsia rhinestones, and clear pave set wings and "tree" shapes. Clip earrings use round (dentelle and chaton) and marquise purples and marquise fuchsias with clear pave set "clovers". Rhodium plate settings. Brooch is 2 1/2" x 2"; slightly domed and layered, this is about 3/8" deep. Earrings are 1 3/8" x 3/4". A few clears are replacements on the brooch, otherwise excellent original condition. Item: SS1-694 Price: $195.00/set US On HOLD

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Description: Eisenberg Bell Stone Bracelet - 1950's Eisenberg done in clear rhinestone often uses a bell shaped stone, and this is no exception, but with an added twist - the settings for the bell shaped stones is tipped to give a ruffled effect. Three large dentelles run down the center and are flanked by three bell stones on each side, from which comes alternating rows of clear and smaller bell shapes, going out to a single row of dentelles to finish off the rest of the bracelet chain. Push in clasp is even set with a clear rhinestone and marked "Eisenber(g)" (the final g is hardly visible). Safety chain, about 7" x 1" at widest point. Rhodium plating, excellent condition. This sparkles so much it was difficult to photograph. I have a pair of earrings in the unsigned section that go very nicely with this, as well as the slightly earlier Eisenberg fur clip SF6-632. Item: SB6-684 Price: $145.00 US

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Description: Eisenberg Light Sapphire Blue Rhinestone Fringe Necklace - Done in all light blue dentelle rhinestones (except for tail) this 1950's piece is an example of the fabulous stones that Eisenberg used in this time period. Adjustable key-hole clasp, signed Eisenberg, this will fit up to a 16+" neck. Silvertone plating, all stones prong set. Excellent condition. Largest stones are 7/16" in diameter. Item: SN6-683 Price: $129.50 US

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Description: Eisenberg Octagonal Cut Clear Rhinestone Bracelet - Another classically elegant look for Eisenberg, octagonal stones were used in single, double and triple lines; in this case it is a single line with paved swirls. 7", everything but the pave is prong set. Push in clasp is set with a single rhinestone; safety chain. Rhodium plating, everything looks to be original and in excellent condition. Goes well with Eisenberg necklace SN2-295. Item: SB8-682 Price: $95.00 US

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Description: Eisenberg Original Pair of Floral Brooches in Emerald/Clear Rhinestone - Eisenberg Original pieces are most often dress or fur clips; brooches are more unusual and a pair, particularly in colored stones and fairly sizeable ( almost 3" x 1 3/4") are quite rare. These are in excellent condition and the only thing that prevents these from being in "mint" condition is that the oval clears have uniformly greyed with time. If you like a "brand new" look I suppose those could be replaced, but I personally do not feel that these detract in any way. The plating has a slight coppery tinge, which I am assuming is either patina or an intentional "rose gold" type look that was popular when these would have been produced. Item: SS1-659 Price: $325.00/pr. US

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Description: Eisenberg Original Fur Clip with Square Octagon Stones - All clear rhinestone fur clip with clear pave and rectangular (square octagon) cut stones in two different sizes, plus a huge dentelle (fancy cut round) on the upper righthand side. 3" x 1 3/4" at widest point. Signed Eisenberg Original and 2 in a circle (stonesetter's mark). Two of the largest rectangular stones have slight spotting/darkening, and channel set emerald cuts don't have as much sparkle as the other stones, but otherwise this is in excellent vintage condition. Volute type design indicates a late 1930's-early 1940's piece. Item: SF6-631 Price: $160.00 US

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Description: Eisenberg Bell Stone Earrings with Old Mark - This is the only pair of Eisenberg earrings that I have had, in over 20 years of collecting Eisenberg, with the "Eisenberg Original" dot matrix type signature (without the word Original) on the clip finding, though I have seen this tab type clip used on other Eisenberg earrings. Nine bell-shaped stones are used in each earring, all prong set. 1 1/4" x 1", rhodium plating, very good condition with some mild darkening along the top edge of some of the stones, as is typical of these pieces. Plating in picture looks pitted, in person these are tiny to non-existent wear marks and NOT pitting. Item: SE6-633 Price: $65.00 US Sorry, SOLD!

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Description: Eisenberg Script E Fur Clip with Bell Stones in Original Box - A really nice Eisenberg clear rhinestone fur clip, with a huge 18mm prong set dentelle surrounded by bell shaped stones, pears and small clears, topped with rectangular stones. This is in the category of "blinding", with only the largest bell stones showing a slight yellowing. Original box is tan with taupe velvet lining, outside says "by Eisenberg" in script and is in amazingly good shape, as most of these boxes are torn, stained, battered or all of the above! Fur clip has "holders" for the pin mechanisms and is 2 5/8" x 1 1/2". Very wearable and beautiful. Item: SF6-632 Price: $145.00US

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Description: Eisenberg Floral Wreath Brooch - Done in all clear rhinestones, this uses large dentelle cut rounds alternating with pear shaped rhinestones, with a paved crescent moon shape over one side of the rounds that is topped with pave set petals. Heavy rhodium plate, excellent vintage condition. Very feminine feel, somehow this almost reminds me of fireworks. About 2 1/4" in diameter including the petals. Very nice piece. Item: SP7-636 Price: $72.50 US

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Description: Eisenberg Clear Rhinestone Earrings with Floral Motif - Large dentelle cut rounds make up the floral "heads", with two marquise "leaves" and a pave set "ribbon". Excellent condition. I have replaced a few missing pave stones. Signed Eisenberg on clip (actually the E is missing from faulty stamping, these actually say ISENBERG). Silvertone, stones are in very nice condition. 1 3/8" x 7/8". Top picture is upside down, the marquises are actually at the top of these earrings. Item: SE9-634 Price: $32.50 US

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Description: Eisenberg Clear Rhinestone Earrings with Marquises and Rounds - Lovely earrings with sparkling marquises and dentelles, accented with clear pave stones. Signed on clip findings. Nice rhodium plating, all stones except the pave work are prong set. 1 1/2" x 3/4". Top photo is upside down, the marquises should be on top. Excellent condition with only slight darkening around the edge of the largest dentelles. I have replaced a few missing pave stones. Item: SE9-635 Price: $37.50 US Sorry, SOLD!

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Description: Rare Eisenberg Original Pair of Fur Clips - While Eisenberg made many spectacular dress and fur clips, they rarely made pairs of clips or did duettes. I am not certain whether these are duettes without a frame, or simply a set of matching fur clips. Substantial in feel, these use double riveted construction and are quite three dimensional. The cornered pears have yellowed slightly but are not clouded or spotted except for very slightly cloudiness at the top of one stone. The pave work has darkened, but I would expect that on legitimate 70 year old plus pieces. 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" x about 5/8" deep, plating is in excellent condition and clips work well. Item: SF1-613 Price: $225.00 US

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Description: Eisenberg Red and Clear Rhinestone 1950's Necklace and Earring Set - Colored Eisenberg is at the top of the list for many collectors, and here we have a set in a highly desirable color. Whether you like red for Christmas, Valentine's Day or simply because you love red, this is a wonderful set. Necklace uses a graduated line of intense Siam red Swarovski dentelle stones from which dangle 6 pear shaped stones at the center, which is also decorated with a pave set cast piece in the shape of a stylized "W". Typical "keyhole" clasp signed Eisenberg. Matching earrings use the same marquises and rounds with the pave "W"; Eisenberg signature is on the inside of the earring findings. Necklace measures 15"+ and is adjustable. Earrings are clip, 1 1/8" x 1 1/8". Earrings are pristine; necklace has a solder repair (see picture) that should not affect the wearability in any way but price reflects. Item: SS6-604 Price: $145.00/set US Sorry, SOLD

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Description: Eisenberg Huge Brooch and Earring Set - As an Eisenberg collector and dealer I have seen a lot of Eisenberg in the past twenty years. This is the most impressive clear rhinestone piece outside of the Eisenberg Originals that I have ever seen. 3 1/4" x 2 3/8", and done in layers for dimensionality, this uses at least 4 sizes of denetelle (fancy cut round) Swarovski crystal stones, along with prong set marquises, all surrounded by pave set leaves, ribbons and swirls. Matching clip earrings carry on the use of dentelles, marquises and pave set swirls. Earrings are 7/8" x 5/8". All pieces marked "Eisenberg" (1950's mark) and brooch has a small number, that looks like it might only be partially struck (xxx01). This may either be a style number or a stone setter number. Eisenberg did not usually mark pieces with numbers past the script E time period. Rhodium plating, all pieces in excellent condition with only a little darkening at the points of a few marquises on the brooch. Clasp is missing "spinner" but holds fine. Item: SS6-585 Price: $225.00/set US

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Description: EXTREMELY RARE Eisenberg "Monarch" Brooch - You have, if you are an Eisenberg collector, seen (at least pictures of) the cleaning woman pin, the mermaid, and other sought after figural brooches. I have NEVER seen this, in any book, or any collection, in 20 years of searching. From my personal collection, this is in excellent condition with no damage to the enamel, all original stones, and only very slight spotting to brass on ball of "club". I have gone through several websites looking for this design in regard to royal crests, etc., and have not found anything specific to this particular design, though in general the lion seems to be universally used as a symbol of monarchy. Interesting split tail. Signature is the block matrix type used on Eisenberg Original pieces, but the word "Original" is not there. 4" x 1 1/2". For the comprehensive Eisenberg collection. Item: SP2-564 Price: $695.00 US Sorry, SOLD!

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Description: Rare Eisenberg Gilt/Pink and Clear Rhinestone Bracelet - Book piece - shown in the Brunialtis' first book, matching pieces are also wonderful. This is in excellent if not mint condition, from my personal collection. Large pink oval stones are prong set into links that are set with lines of clear pave, heavy goldtone plating, foldover clasp, safety chain. Signed with script E signature (mid 1940's mark). Absolutely wonderful. Item: SB1-560 Price: $295.00 US Sorry, SOLD!

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Description: Eisenberg Clear Rhinestone Twin Pins - A somewhat unusual genre for Eisenberg, these are marked with both Eisenberg on a rectangular plaque; one is also marked with a 4 digit number that looks like 2704. Pears and emerald cuts surround a pave set central portion in a bow motif. Each, 1 3/4" x 7/8", and very sparkly. Some of the stones are replacements. Item: SP8-553 Price: $64.50 US/pair

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Description: Eisenberg Ice Fuchsia, Purple and Clear Rhinestone Earrings - Those of you who collect the colored Eisenberg rhinestone pieces of the 1950's and 1960's know that these pieces are getting to be more and more scarce. These earrings are from one of the most beautiful color combinations that Eisenberg made available during that time period. I feel fortunate to have found 2 pairs during my years of collecting and selling, and the other pair I'm keeping for me! Approximately 1 1/2" x 3/4", rhodium plated setting, clip findings, excellent original condition. Item: SE2-267 Price: $110.00 US Sorry, SOLD!

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Description: Eisenberg Clear Emerald-Cut Rhinestone Choker Necklace - Done in 8mm x 7mm rectangular cuts, this again features the 1950's Eisenberg "keyhole" adjustable clasp, and will fit up to a 15 1/2" neck. Rhodium plating. Very slight yellow of stones near the clasp as is typical of these pieces, otherwise excellent condition. Item: SN2-295 Price: $89.50 US

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Description: Eisenberg Original Clear and Golden Topaz Rhinestone Fur Clip - Set in goldtone, this 2 1/4" x 1 3/4" fur clip is signed Eisenberg Original and the number 20. Clear stones have aged but still have a lot of sparkle and appear to be original. Colored stones, all ovals except for the second row from top which are rounds, are all prong set and in very good vintage condition, with small amounts of darkening around the edges of the ovals and a little speckling at the back of one. On back the fur clip points have scraped the metal which seems to be normal wear on almost all fur clips. Item: SF2-158 Price: $295.00 US

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Description: The BEST Eisenberg Clear Dentelle Rhinestone Earrings - The multi-faceting of these premium dentelle rhinestones refract so much light that photographing them is extremely difficult. Each earring features 6 dentelles and and a curved paved swirl. Clip, rhodium plating, Almost 1 1/2" x 3/4". Signed Eisenberg on back of clip mechanism. This is a nice marriage with the Eisenberg dentelle bracelet below. Item: SE5-184 Price: $59.00 US Sorry, SOLD!

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Description: Eisenberg Clear Rhinestone Brooch and Earring Set - This lovely set has round, marquise and pear shaped clear rhinestones as well as pave set swirls. All in excellent condition. The marquises have yellowed slightly, very common for vintage Eisenberg that hasn't been restoned. Not quite 2" x 1 7/8" on brooch; clip earrings are about 1 1/4" x 1". Top quality rhodium plating, all stones except pave are prong set. Excellent condition. These pieces, at one time not uncommon to find, are fast disappearing into private collections. Item: SS6-436 Price: $150.00/set US

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Description: Eisenberg Snowflake? Brooch in Dark and Light Blue with Clear Accents - Whether this looks like a star, a pentagon, a floral or a snowflake to you, it is a very nice piece! Marked with the script E (late 1940's-early 1950's), heavy rhodium plate, riveted two tiered construction, every stone either pronged or bead hand set (unusual for Eisenberg) except for the center stone, which seems to be paste. The clears have darkened or yellowed but there are so few of them that they don't distract from the overall look and are all original. Light blue diamond shapes have darkened slightly at the tips. Very good original condition and so pretty. Item: SP6-314 Price: $120.00 US Sorry, SOLD!

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Description: Eisenberg/Eisenberg Ice Clear Rhinestone Brooch & Earrings - Here is an interesting transitional set where the brooch is marked Eisenberg and the number 5355, matching earrings are marked Eisenberg Ice. I am guessing this would date this set to the 1960's, when pieces were starting to be marked "Ice" but some of the pieces were still Eisenberg in block letters (and design number was usually used on even earlier pieces.) One of the fun mysteries of costume jewelry. Small, medium and large dentelles (fancy cuts) are entwined with two sizes of navettes, with the smaller navettes surrounded by a cast pave set border, with a "cut out" between the navette and the border. Stones are in very good shape, with a little yellowing of the pave on the brooch and slight edge darkening on some of the earring large navettes. Heavy rhodium plate, earrings are 1 1/4" x 1" and brooch is about 1 3/4" in diameter. Extremely sparkly, knock your socks off bling. Item: SS2-503 Price: $145.00/set US

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Description: Eisenberg Butterfly? Brooch in Clear Rhinestone - Marked with the script E (late 1940's-early 1950's), heavy rhodium plate, screwed together two tiered construction, all in clear rhinestones The clears have darkened or yellowed slightly but are all original. The only condition issue is that one of the squared pears has a chip at the point (see picture upper left) but we were unable to find anyone who carries this highly unusual stone to do a replacement. About 1 1/2" x 1 1/4". Item: SP6-393 Price: $59.50 US Sorry, SOLD!

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Description: Magnificient Eisenberg Block E Necklace - This substantial feeling piece uses all clear keystone and baguette rhinestones with the baguettes providing the chain and the keystone adding the fringe. Slide-in clasp with safety chain (highly unusual to have a safety chain on a necklace!), 15" x 5/8". Rhodium plating is in excellent condition as are the stones, with only a few of the baguettes showing mild signs of aging. The block E mark is rare and presumably dates to the mid 1940's, though my gut instinct says that this is post WWII and more likely late 1940's-early 1950's. I have seen a matching bracelet for this. Item: SN1-531 Price: $139.50 US

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