Unsigned Dress Clips, Fur (Pin) Clips and Duettes
Dress clips were a staple of women's fashion wardrobes in the first half of the 20th century, with their apex of popularity being 1920-40. Initially meant to be worn at the bottom of a v-neckline or in pairs at the corners of a square or sweetheart neckline, they were eventually used to clip anywhere that "madam" required a fashionable accent - on hats, purses, shoes, gloves, belts, scarves, etc. Fur clips gained popularity in the 1940's; originally called "pin" clips, these were to be used on fur jackets and stolls, and could actually be used on any heavier garment that a brooch mechanism could be used; the pin clip mechanism provided more security than a brooch would.
Duettes were combinations of a pair of dress or fur clips clipped into a metal frame with a brooch type finding (pinstem) so that you could wear the clips separately or combine them into a large piece and use it as a brooch. Sometimes the metal frames were decorative so that you could wear the frame by itself; these are more rare than the conventional duettes. Mechanisms were even made to house three and even four items and are quite rare. Most duette patents date to the mid to late 1920's and duettes themselves were sold well into the 1950's. Coro was the largest producer of duettes but most of the well known companies produced at least a few. Trifari duettes are marked "Clipmates". Most duettes, if signed, are signed on the metal frame instead of the clips, so if they become separated from the frame they become much harder to identify as far as manufacturer/designer.
The following pieces are all unsigned; you may find signed clips and duettes divided by manufacturer in the signed section of the site, particularly on the page of Coro items (Clipmates will be found on the Trifari page, if in stock). Bakelite dress clips will be found in the Copper, Silver, Plastics, and Other section of the site on pages 5 and 6.
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Description: Unsigned Early Haskell Beaded Dress Clip - Pretty brown mottled beads are sewn onto dress clip and anchored with clear silver-lined seed beads. Back of clip is marked "HETL Reg. U.S. Pat. Off.". Undoubtedly one of a pair as this measures 1 1/4" x 1". Original sewing appears to be in good shape; excellent condition. These HETL clips have been confirmed as being findings that Haskell used. Item: UD1-337 Price: $24.50 US |
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Description: Unsigned Haskell Beaded Dress Clip - Small dress clip exhibits the components and construction of Haskell. Quality white glass beads are sewn into place and secured with green seed beads and topped with two green glass leaves. Clip mechanism marked "HETL" is one of several types known to have been used by Haskell. Probably originally one of a pair. About 1 1/2" x 1". Item: UD3-252 Price: $39.50 US |
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Description: Unsigned Haskell Dress Clip - When I found the dress clip pictured on the top picture, it had a plastic perforated back and was almost identical to another unsigned Haskell dress clip that I had in my personal collection. (See middle picture of both clips side by side.) Unfortunately when I tested the clip to make sure it worked properly, the plastic perforated back cracked and started to fall apart. So I decided to take it completely apart and re-sew it to a metal perforated back (see bottom picture). The top picture shows the completed piece. It should now be ready for another 70 or so years! About 2 1/4" x 1 3/4", with high quality crystal in graduated sizes and small seed beads at the end of each dangle. Brass leaves at top of piece are in two sections. Item: UD1-221 Price: $85.00 US  |
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Description: Unsigned Early Haskell "Fan" Dress Clip - Similar in style to the "lampshade" pieces and certainly a well known design in it's own right, this uses cinammon colored opaque beads, attached to a metal frame by stringing and then sewing to the dress clip. Brass floral at top is centered with more opaque beads. Ends are secured with small clear seed beads. As with most of these pieces with any brass there are signs of verdigris, which I have cleaned up as much as possible. 2 1/4" x 1 1/2" Item: UD3-407 Price: $79.50 US |
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Description: Unsigned Haskell Dress Clip with Navy White Beads in a Floral Motif- Wired in a manner that resembles the Haskell "lampshade" pieces and asymmetrical in design, this also looks very much like the beaded dress clip above. All pieces are hand-wired; if you look closely you can see that there are white beads underneath to give the design more dimensionality. Not in perfect shape - the leaves are intact but have been cracked and the metal frame has verdigris issues that I have not been able to get rid of to my satisfaction. About 1 3/4" x 1". Again, probably half of a pair. Item: UD3-273 Price: $35.00 US |
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Description: Haskell? Pair of Dress Clips with Red Beads - Antiqued silvertone metal; burgundy cabochon glass stones accented with red beads on head pins. One clip is in original condition, the other has had repair work done on the beaded "stems". Clips are about 1 1/8" in diameter. Item: UD3-358 Price: $39.50 US |
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Description: Multi-Pastel Glass Moonstone Cabochon Pair of Dress Clips - Accented with black enamel and tiny clears, these gorgeous dress clips are almost certain early Trifari (TKF-KTF) but are unsigned. Top of design has small clears set in two rows flanking prong-set baguettes; glass moonstones are set in a 4-3-2-1 pyramidal design. Clip mechanisms are strong; plating on back of these mechanisms is worn down to the brass base metal, but the back of the actual piece is fine. A few of the clears are replacements, and the black enamel is worn along the edges, but for 70+ year old pieces they are really in very nice condition. Each is 1 1/2" x 1 1/4". Item: UD2-525 Price: $95.00 US Sorry, SOLD! |
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Description: Floral Fur Clip with Enamel and Unfoiled Stones - Deep blue oval and round stones are prong set on goldtone stems accented with heart-shaped two-tone green enamel leaves; even the bottom end of the stem is enameled, in an enameling style that I have only found in Trifari and better Coro pieces; heart shaped leaves are also very Trifari like. Large 3 3/4" x 2 1/4" size. One small enamel ding on one leaf as seen in picture. Stones look like glass but feel too warm? Very refractive and don't look like plastic. Item: UF3-425 Price: $79.50 US Sorry, SOLD! |
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Description: Grape Motif Dress Clip with "Egg" Pearls and Rhinestone Pave - A very elegant little clip that would look so great in the center of a V neck, sweetheart neck, or a strapless gown. Egg-shaped glass pearls in a luscious shade of dark cream are wired? in. Clip mechanism is done in a floral motif, a testimony to detail that only the wearer would see. Plate that covers the wiring has plating damage (see bottom picture), but clip is tight and works well. 1 3/4" x 1". Item: UD1-478 Price: $39.50 US  |
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Description: Brass and Yellow Faux Moonstone Dress Clip - Yellow jewelry is difficult to find. This features a cut-out design and is quite 3-D. 2 1/8" x 1 1/2". Clip is tight, all excellent original condition. Charming! Item: UD4-303 Price: $24.50 US |
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Description: "Glass Block" Style Clear Rhinestone Dress Clip - Cool deco styling makes this chunky dress clip interesting. Square clear rhinestones are set in rows at a right angle to each other in center front, making a 3-dimensional v-shape that is intriguing. Center is flanked by a row of clear rounds and another row of square clears. 1 1/2" x 1 5/8" x 1/4" deep. Excellent original condition. Item: ND5-054 Price: $19.50 US |
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Description: Czech Type Dress Clip with Topaz Glass Stones - The larger oval stones in this piece are unfoiled glass, while the smaller ovals are foiled; the leaf "veins" are pave set with clear rhinestones; all stones except for the clears are prong set. Brass setting: 2 1/4"x 1 5/8". Even the clip mechanism is artistically done. Item: ND3-061 Price: $49.50 US |
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Description: Blue Glass Moonstone and Clear Rhinestone Dress Clip - Unsigned potmetal clip with nice deco cut out design with center glass cabochon, topped with three prong set baguettes; more baguettes along the sides. Paste set rounds; I replaced one that was missing, otherwise all seems original. 1 5/8" x 1 5/8". Possibly TKF. Item: ND3-159 Price: $22.50 US |
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Description: Czech-style Green Leaf Dress Clip - Very similar to the above pendant. Emerald green rhinestone pear and oval shapes are surrounded by smaller, lighter emerald green round rhinestones. A really pretty piece. Clip is strong and operates easily. Item: UD4-045 Price: $45.00 US |
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Description: Dress Clip with Glass Pearl "Buttons" and Clear Rhinestones - I love these pieces with "flattened" pearls (these actually have pointed backs) as they not only have an intriguing shape but almost always have a color that is hard to describe but very pretty - we'll say silvery beige but when you see them in person you'll understand - maybe " light cafe au lait" would be better?!! Anway, very pretty little piece, excellent condition, 1 3/4" in diameter, silvertone potmetal setting. Pretty on the romantic looking tops for fall/winter. Item: ND3-134 Price: $17.50 US |
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Description: Czech Type Multi-Jeweltone Dress Clip in a Shield Design - While this is a larger (2" x 1 3/4") dress clip, I am guessing that it was originally part of a pair. Done in fire polished rhinestones in blue, red, light emerald, lavender and topaz. I replaced a few missing stones. Excellent condition. Just right to go in the center of that camisole top you're wearing out tonight! Item: ND2-084 Price: $35.00 US |
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Description: Clear Rhinestone Triangular Dress Clip - Great deco styling here in a piece that, from the looks of the top notch clip mechanism and excellent design, may very possibly be a TKF (early Trifari) piece. All original, potmetal setting. Excellent condition and would look great along the center of a square neckline or attached to the flap of your favorite evening purse. Use your imagination and make a fashion statement. Item: ND3-144 Price: $22.50 US Sorry, SOLD!  |
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Description: Lovely Large Dress Clip with Clear Rhinestones - One of the best designs of the era when all these potmetal dress clips were made. Marquises, baguettes and rounds make up a kind of cut-out door-knocker design. At 2 1/2" x 2 3/8" this was definitely a single rather the one of a pair. A very nice size for the center of any V-necked dress, or try it in the center of a jewel-necked top. Item: ND5-099 Price: $34.50 US Sorry, SOLD! |
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Description: Brass Leaf Dress Clip - This smaller (2" x 1 1/2") clip may or may not have been part of a pair; seems almost too large for a pair but not large enough to definitely have been a single. However, for the modern collector, this is a nice size to wear with casual clothing on a v-neckline or clipped to a pocket or hat. I have not polished this as it has a nice patina but you may wish to remove some of the slight darkening around the edges. Nice design. Item: ND5-0036 Price: $9.50 US |
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Description: Pink Rhinestone "Grapes" Dress Clip - This is unusual in that the clip is figural and in all pink. Done in all pink rhinestone ovals with a few small pink rounds on the stem. Potmetal setting has darkened, giving this an antique silvertone look. There is some variation in the pink, whether this is just from age or whether this was intentionally done this way, I do not know, but it is very subtle and attractive. Czech type clip mechanism, works great. 2" x 1 1/2". Item: ND4-160 Price: $59.50 US |
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Description: Clear Dress Clip with Curved Top - This circa 1920's potmetal clip is a lovely cut-out design and at about 2" x 1" is a nice size for dress or casual wear. This would also look great on a velvet evening clutch bag or perhaps on your favorite hat. Stones have mellowed but still have a subtle sparkle. Item: UD7-207 Price: $18.50 US |
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Description: Large Clear Dress Clip Very nice stones in this 3" x 2.375" clip. Setting is open-backed, stones are foil backed. There is a minimal amount of foil removal from rubbing during wear, but does not detract from the piece. Baguettes, marquises, squares and one large oval, set in potmetal, clip works well. Stunning focal point for any V-necked dress or top. Item: UD5-054 Price: $60.00 US |
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Description: Multi Pastel Rhinestone Dress Clip - Another great Czech look piece that may be L/N, S in a star, or lots of other companies that have been lost to history. Rhinestones in pink, lime green, light blue, lavender and golden topaz colors make this wearable with many colors of both casual and dress clothes. Put in a V neckline, on a blazer pocket, on a black cord necklace - the possibilities for this piece are endless. Item: UD8-100 Price: $39.00 US |
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Description: Goldtone and Clear RS Retro Dress Clip - Don't you just love the volute styling on this piece? A sizeable 2 3/4" x 2" makes this an unusual piece and very wearable, especially with the low-cut V necklines that will be everywhere this spring. Wear this to a party or out to dinner and be the envy of all the fashionistas. Item: UD12-402 Price: $49.50 US |
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Description: Clear Navette Dress Clip - Classic styling is used in this traditional dress clip, which measures 2 3/8" x 1 3/4". Some of the stones in this piece are replacements, and a few of the original stones are very slightly yellowed, but at this price you can get a lot of use out of a very wearable piece. Item: UD9-214 Price: $20.00 US |
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Description: Red Horseshoe Fur Clip - Whether this is supposed to be a floral horseshoe, I'm not sure, but this is a cool piece! Gilted brass with 8 unfoiled emerald-cut red glass stones, and red plastic stones at the center of the flowers. About 2 5/8" x 1 1/2"; this piece has a little moisture damage, mostly on the reverse, but is priced accordingly. Item: UF11-134 Price: $30.00 US |
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Description: Fur Clip with Pink Faux Moonstone Cabochons - Set in silvertone metal and accented with clear rhinestones along the leaves, this grape motif clip is sure to please. 3" x 1 1/2". Probably Coro, but unsigned. Item: UF5-258 Price: $39.50 US |
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Description: Clear Floral Dress Clip - Isn't this a great piece? Center stones of each flower are unusual - flatback rhinestones with an all-faceted top (no table). Faceting comes to a point (I believe this is called rosecut); center stones are pronged, all others paste set and original. Nice quality; clip is tight. 2" x 2" at widest points. Item: UD8-102 Price: $26.50 US |
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Description: Clear Rhinestone Dress Clip with Blue Square Stones & ZigZag Edge - This elegant clip is just the ticket for a dark blue v-neck top or to clip to a blue hat or clutch purse. At 2" x 1" it is small enough not to be conspicuous but large enough to be seen. Potmetal setting, circa 1930. Unusual zigazg pattern on bottom edge. Item: ND3-076 Price: $20.00 US |
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Description: Blue Faux Moonstone Dress Clip with Clear Rhinestones - Shield shape design with lots of prong set light blue faux moonstones. Design almost looks like there should be something at the center but I can find no sign of anything missing. Clip mechanism works well and is the type used by Eisenberg, but I have no reason to believe that this is an Eisenberg piece. Large 2 3/4" x 1 3/4" size is still very wearable. I have recently found a second, identical one, so I have two for sale. Item: UD7-205 Price: $42.50 US |
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Description: Potmetal and Clear Rhinestone Floral Dress Clip - This charming piece came to us with quite a few stones missing, so it has been restoned. Clip measures 2" x 1 1/4" so could be either a single or one of a pair. I have seen the identical clip on another website - please inquire if you wish to buy both to make a pair. Item: ND1-052 Price: $20.00 US |
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Description: Dress Clip with Large Unfoiled Purple Oval Stone and Clear Rhinestone Pave - Potmetal setting: Clear rhinestones have been professionally re-done. Beautiful design, 2 1/4" x 1 1/8". Clip works great! Item: ND3-093 Price: $29.50 US |
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Description: Cornucopia Design Dress Clips - Interesting pair of potmetal dress clips in clear rhinestone with a border of dark blue square rhinestones. I actually have these upside down, the blue stones would be at the top of the clip when fastened on. 1" x 1 1/4". One or two stones appear to be replacements but aren't obvious. Item: UD7-204 Price: $36.50 US |
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Description: Long Thin Dress Clips - Circa 1920s. A full 3" x 1" at widest point. Some yellowing of stones but appears to be pretty much original and in good shape. I have never seen a pair this long before. Item: ND1-071 Price: $25.00 US |
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Description: Pair of Dress Clips with Dark Blue Baguettes - All stones original, clips work well. Potmetal setting. Some of the clears have darkened, but all are there. 1 1/4" x 3/8". Very wearable on a squared neckline. Item: ND1-089 Price: $27.50 US |
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Description: Pair of Dress Clips with Brass Leaves and Dark Green Glass Stones - Pairs of colored dress clips are becoming increasingly hard to find. These are probably Czech and have their original patina. All stones are prong set; clips measure 1 7/8" x 1 3/8". Item: ND2-057 Price: $65.00 US |
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Description: Pair of Dress Clips with Multicolored Rhinestones - While this is the same design and colorization, these two clips are both set randomly with aqua, pink, gold, purple, medium blue and green colored rhinestones, so the color arrangement is not identical; regardless it is a cool set and much prettier in person. Center of clip is cut out so whatever fabric it is on will show thru. Each clip is about 2" x 1 1/2", large enough so that you could even wear them separately, but coordinate your ensemble - for example, put one on your jacket pocket and one over the clasp of an envelope style purse. Item: ND3-060 Price: $59.00 US  |
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Description: Pair of Faux Pearl and Rhinestone Dress Clips - Lovely pair of "button" pearl dress clips, probably from the 1920's. Look at the attention to detail on both the front and backsides - these were originally expensive pieces, possibly TKF. The clip mechanisms have a floral motif and "fit" the shape of the body of the dress clip. The pearls have deepened to a light golden color. All the clears look to be original and are in excellent shape. One pearl is a replacement - this may look obvious in the picture but in person you will have to look hard to find it. Shield shape, 1 3/8" x 1 1/4". Pearls are currently coming back into fashion - here's your chance to decorate a square neckline in classic style. Exceptional pieces. Item: ND3-158 Price: $35.00 US Sorry, SOLD! |
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Description: Pair of Dress Clips with Yellow Fancy Cut Stones and Clear Demi-Fins - How many times do you see dress clips in yellow? These deco clips use flatback yellow stones with unusual faceting; main body is set with fire polished rhinestones (demi fins). 1 3/4" x 3/4". All stones are original and one of the clears has darkened. Yellow stones have a little bit of green along the edges but this is NOT verdigris. Marked WMCA on the back of each for White Metal Caster's Association. Item: ND3-062 Price: $45.00 US |
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Description: Duette with Aqua, Rose and Clear Rhinestones - As a duette enthusiast I always enjoy seeing different mechanisms as well as brands and styles. Coro and Trifari were by no means the only makers or duettes; many were signed by high profile makers such as Mazer and Weiss, as well as many unsigned versions. This particular duette features two dress clips that are easily removed from their frame, but that also quickly snap into the frame for both security and correct positioning. A pretty combination of popular pastels of the 1930's-50's. The clear stones have yellowed slightly, commensurate with age. About 2 1/4" x 7/8" when assembled. All mechanisms work properly and hold tightly. Oddly, the large pink stones don't fit tightly into their frames on one side, but otherwise seems to be a well made piece. Item: UD1-288 Price: $45.00 US |
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Description: Early Unsigned Duette - While Coro made the bulk of the duettes found on the secondary market today, many other companies made them, also. This well-made duette is unsigned and is on the larger side ( 2 1/4" x 1 1/8") and separates into two dress clips. Nicely done cut-out pattern is symmetrical and features baguettes and marquises as well as round clear rhinestones. Clips slide off of metal frame. Item: UM5-062 Price: $65.00 US |
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Description: Duette with Bright Blue Rhinestones - Sometimes when you find pieces in light sapphire rhinestones the stones are kind of "washed out" looking. These are definitely NOT those; quite an intense light blue that is usually only found in dichroic stones, however, this isn't a color change piece. Easy slide off duette connector, all parts work well. 2 1/2" x 1" fully assembled. Silvertone setting, excellent condition. Colored rhinestone duettes are fairly rare. Item: UD2-479 Price: $79.50 US  |
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Description: Purple Rhinestone Gilt Duette - Many companies beside Coro made duettes; this one is unsigned except for Pat. 1945268. All stones appear to be original. As a longtime duette enthusiast, I would consider this to be rare in both stone and plating color. Excellent condition. 2 3/4" x 1 3/8". Item: UD3-248 Price: $125.00 US |
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Description: Duette with Brooch as a connector - I really love these duettes where you can use the connector as a seperate brooch! Fine jewelry has long used the "convertible" idea; no, I'm not talking about a Chevrolet here, but multiple purpose pieces. Wear the brooch alone, wear the clips alone, or put it all together and wear the duette as one unit. Lovely cut out design, all stones are original and entire piece is in excellent shape. 2 3/8" x 1 1/8" full assembled; each clip is 7/8" x 3/4". Brooch alone is 1 1/4" x 1 1/8". All mechanisms work well. Potmetal with clear rhinestones. This could be worn with the clips going vertically rather than horizontally but there are small notches in each side of the brooch for the clips to "snuggle in". Ingenious! Item: UD8-482 Price: $29.50 US  |
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Description: Blue and Clear Rhinestone Deco Duette - This duette is unsigned in any manner. Dark blue (montana blue) square cut rhinestones are surrounded by clear rhinestone pave. 2 3/4" x 3/4" A nice example of true deco jewelry. Item: UD4-249 Price: $98.50 US  |
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